Sidemarker and Turn Signal Replacement

The rear sidemarkers over the rear wheels are identical to the turn signals over the front wheels except for their color.

The turn signals are fairly simple to access with the same-side headlight assembly removed. They are also easier to photograph in situ, so here they are:

Isometric view of the turn signal assembly. (Sidemarkers are the same, just red.)

Rotate the top of the turn signal out and then lift up to remove.

View of the left turn signal on the inside of the fender. Only the gray clips and wires are visible. The black part behind it is the EVSE charge door mounting bracket.

Squeeze the clips together and press the top of the turn signal assembly out.

Turn signal connector-- just lift the tab and pull apart. — Turn signal connector– just lift the tab and pull apart.

The rear sidemarkers are a bit more of a pain to access. You need to access both the connector for the light from the inside of the car and the light itself from the outside. Let’s start with the inside:

I'm doing this demonstration on a car that we're scrapping out, so that's why you might notice some things that are not quite normal. — I’m doing this demonstration on a car that we’re scrapping out, so that’s why you might notice some things that are not quite normal.

First, pull out the rear carpet which is Velcro-ed at the front (just behind the seats).

Pull the weatherstrip off the rear liftgate on the side of the sidemarker you're replacing and along the bottom. (Don't worry-- it just pushes back on.) — Pull the weatherstrip off the rear liftgate on the side of the sidemarker you’re replacing and along the bottom. (Don’t worry– it just pushes back on.)

SidemarkerReplacement4 — By the way, there’s a hidden compartment for smuggling under that panel just in front of the two storage bins. For Thinks with the Zebra battery, that’s where the battery cooling fan goes.

Using a Torx 20 bit, remove the 2 short screws and five longer screws that secure the plastic trim around the liftgate latch.

Remove the trim piece. And if you see any of the gray sticky stuff, I strongly advise you to avoid touching it or getting it on your clothes.

Again, using a Torx 20, remove the 2 screws at the bottom of the C-pillar trim.

There are probably 4 clips on the C-pillar trim piece. There's no best way to pull it out. If you break one of the clips it's not the end of the world. In fact, I broke one on purpose for one customer and it got rid of a very annoying noise that I had tried many other methods to eliminate. — There are probably 4 clips on the C-pillar trim piece. There’s no best way to pull it out– it just takes experience. If you break one of the clips it’s not the end of the world. In fact, I broke one on purpose for one customer and it got rid of a very annoying noise that I had tried many other methods to eliminate.

You can see the connector for the sidemarker-- it's the only one that leads to a grommet going out toward the wheel well. — You can see the connector for the sidemarker– it’s the only one that leads to a grommet going out toward the wheel well. Disconnect it.

Remove the 5 screws that secure the mud flap to the rear bumper/quarter panel. (Torx 20 again, and really really helpful to have this little 90 degree tool shown, especially when the wheel isn't hanging down while it's on a lift.) — Remove the 5 screws that secure the mud flap to the rear bumper/quarter panel. (Torx 20 again, and really really helpful to have this little 90 degree tool shown, especially when the wheel isn’t hanging down while it’s on a lift.)

Bend the fender liner down so that you can reach up to release the sidemarker clips (same as the turn signal shown above). It's probably gonig to be a dirty job. — Bend the fender liner down so that you can reach up to release the sidemarker clips (same as the turn signal shown above). It’s probably going to be a dirty job.

The wire runs above some foam insulation that is secured by a plastic fasteners pressed on to plastic threaded studs. Remove at least on of these fasteners by threading it off the stud (but you can just press it on when it's time to re-assemble). — The wire runs above some foam insulation that is secured by a plastic fasteners pressed on to plastic threaded studs. Remove at least on of these fasteners by threading it off the stud (but you can just press it on when it’s time to re-assemble).

Pull back the foam to see the grommet, and pull it through.

Install in reverse order of removal noting the following:

Make sure you test the light before you put everything back together and find out you forgot to connect it.

When re-positioning the fender liner and mud flap make sure the metal clips that the screws go into haven’t wandered from where they are supposed to be.

Don’t over-torque the screws that secure the C-pillar trim and liftgate latch trim– it’s easy to strip out the plastic that they screw into.