Comments for Blog City PDX

Comment on Every Think owner must know this! by Johnny

Johnny — Fri, 08 Apr 2016 04:14:58 +0000

I uploaded a series of photos at ( https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/think_ev/photos/albums/1019683942 ) that show how I cut the common wire to the heater control and spliced in a 40A relay with a time delay circuit to wait 20-30 seconds before the heater / blower will turn on. I wired the timer relay to the sunroof fuse position as it does not come on with the 1st position “accessory” but comes on only when the key is in the 2nd position “On” (and the “start” position 3). When the car is started, the 12v signal starts the timer delay and in 20-30 seconds it activates the relay which powers the auxiliary relay and then closes the B6 common wire to the blower switch turning on the heater or a/c.
The time delay relay circuit is a hobbykit.eu model 1581 or 1582 http://hobbykit.eu/rele-za-vreme-1-50-sekundi-s-kutija and can be purchased from Ebay at http://www.ebay.com/itm/Timer-Switch-Time-Relay-1-to-50-sec-10A-Delay-Off-Switch-12V-/231853911019?hash=item35fb91ebeb:g:MkcAAOSwoydWiqkl It is adjustable with a potentiometer from 2 seconds to 50 seconds delay on power up. The 40a relay can be purchased from any auto parts store and is a typical 12V accessory relay.
You still cannot quick cycle the key EVER. If the heater is on and the key is cycled before 4-5 seconds, the pre-charge resistor WILL fail and your car will not start until you drop the battery and repair the MLEC board (if you didn’t burn it too badly). This mod is probably worth the effort for the long term or if you ever allow someone else to drive your car that does not understand how important it is to turn off the blower switch.

Comment on EVSE Fuse Retrofit — IMPORTANT CORRECTION by Johnny

Johnny — Fri, 08 Apr 2016 04:01:27 +0000

I think it is a surge or inrush current that blows the fuse. When electronic switching power supplies start to receive voltage, there is a very short time of high current to start up the power supply and charge the capacitors. The further away from the board, the less likely the fuse will blow due to the resistance of the wire up to the board (where the load is highest). I believe that putting the fuse holders as close to the PCU as possible and using 12 amp fuses (or 15 amp fast blow) (on the car that still has the 20 amp fuses on the board) will prevent the onboard fuses from blowing. I have been charging the car for several days with 12 amp fast blow fuses. So far they are working OK. I only charge on my home EVSE and monitor the current so I know when the car is charged. I believe some commercial EVSE units may actually charge at more than the 12 amps, but my car draws approximately 12-13 amps so that is where I started with the fuse size. If they blow in a week or two, I will go up to 15 amp fast blow fuses. Much easier than replacing the internal board fuses in the PCU. The sticker on the charger inside the PCU says 100-250 V @ 14 amps MAX and 25 amp fuse size. Remember that the pumps and fan while charging is added to this current. I don’t know if the power for the 12 volt supply is after these fuses, but from the schematic I suspect it is located after the 20 amp fuses. Why they put in 20 amp fuses to this charger when it states 25 amp fuse right on the charger sticker itself is beyond me…. and very painful to replace. I would definitely put inline fuse holders close to the PCU with 15 Amp fuses as a preventative measure, for 1 hour of labor and $20-40 in parts, you may save yourself 12 hours of painful PCU removal to jump across the fuses and add them later.
Johnny

Comment on 12 Volt Battery Replacement by HANS GALLE

HANS GALLE — Sat, 20 Feb 2016 16:20:40 +0000

— TH!NK 12 V battery spezification —
Website http://www.varta-automotive.com/en-gb/products/automotive/
select >> Blue Dynamic / Blue Dynamic EFB
http://www.varta-automotive.com/en-gb/products/automotive/blue-dynamic/544-402-044
Download Product Detail (PDF) dl_ca. 20s:
http://www.varta-automotive.com/en-gb/products/automotive/blue-dynamic/544-402-044

Also possible / and better performance:
select >> Silver Dynamic / Silver Dynamic AGM
Typ details: Silver Dynamic 552 401 052 Voltage 12V Capacity 52Ah
Download Product Detail (PDF):
http://www.varta-automotive.com/en-gb/products/automotive/silver-dynamic/552-401-052

Important! Maintenance-free, no water refill. What both types have. Because the battery is difficult to achieve at Think.

(This is not Varta advertising. But only for comparison of dimensions and performance.)
HANS

Comment on A new suspect in the case of failed chargers! by Noel

Noel — Sun, 27 Sep 2015 16:13:12 +0000

Crimping is superior to solder in high current applications.
Re: J1772 connector.
Looking into connector on the car.
The upper two large pins are L1 and L2 AC lines.
Same as on an electric dryer, range, or water heater.
The lower large pin in center is ground.
If GND pin conducts over 20ma , charging shuts down for safety.
The small pin on lower left is 1khz pilot.
The small pin on lower right is proximity.

The % duty cycle of the 1 kHz signal tells the car the maximum current it can draw from the EVSE. When you pressed the button on your Leviton, it changed its % duty cycle on pilot signal to what corresponds with 12A. The Think sees it and draws 12A. My Think only draws 14A max on 220V even if it sees a 30-80A pilot signal.

Comment on A new suspect in the case of failed chargers! by HANS GALLE

HANS GALLE — Sun, 27 Sep 2015 07:49:15 +0000

Oh yes, the Pilot signal.
In the initiative ‘Open EVSE’ I found good information years ago.
Here is a link:
https://code.google.com/p/open-evse/
Then click left on >> J1772.pdf
The wiring: My TH!NK has the plug type Lewden. USA-TH!NKs has J1772.
Excerpts from ftp_asgren plans (yahoo_group_think_ev / files):
#AC_inlet_Lewden_ J1772_wiring.pdf
https://www.dropbox.com/s/l9yvp1uj0adxl8l/AC_inlet_Lewden_%20J1772_wiring.pdf?dl=0

#AC_inlet_-A40B_USA.pdf
https://www.dropbox.com/s/e7hulj0lw355b8g/AC_inlet_-A40B_USA.pdf?dl=0

#AC_inlet_-A40_EU_blue.pdf
https://www.dropbox.com/s/1atoz1rt3guf1v6/AC_inlet_-A40_EU_blue.pdf?dl=0

#AC_charge_EU_USA.pdf
https://www.dropbox.com/s/lmoo5xn57kp8spg/AC_charge_EU_USA.pdf?dl=0

You see, Lewden plug has 6 pins connected, J1772 just 5.
Why? — Proximity in Lewden with permanent magnet. In car-plug sits a reed contact. In J1772 works an micro switch.

Here in the EU Think had been delivered with charger cable and ICCB of Kitron / Billingstad-Norway. ICCB Pilot selection 10 or 16A.
But real maximum my device is 13,4A.
On the grid side is an Schuko connector (Old poor construction).
The allowed according to the rules of the art (VDE, IEC, …) in the long run only 13A(25grdC).
Merci ….. HANS

Comment on A new suspect in the case of failed chargers! by Warlock

Warlock — Sat, 26 Sep 2015 07:02:38 +0000

The two signals you are wondering about is the J1772 pilot signal (CP) to tell the car how much amp it can draw and tell the charger that a car is connected and ready to charge. https://code.google.com/p/open-evse/wiki/J1772Basics

Tje other line is a proximity switch (a magnetic sensor in the think) to tell the vehicle to stop charging if someone start pulling out the contact.

Comment on Open circuit splices by Hans Galle

Hans Galle — Fri, 11 Sep 2015 20:45:50 +0000

Wire harnesses, specifically their splices is a great field. Loose connections, effects of back voltage and something are hard to find.
I also had time. 12V-Battery charge of the Ford Tourneo.
The generator is controlled by PWM control lines from the computer, I learned this.
In lateral protective hose was an interruption.
That may have been cracked in manufacturing, transportation or installation, I think.
Produce cable connections properly because you never stop learning.
Handling by professionals = ? (cost)
Solder connections in cars = problematically (not elastic)
Wire connections = crimp (do not solder, right tools, 7-wire lead)
Reality teaches me constantly.

I mean, the producers of the think have made effort and delivered a useful result.
Salutations HANS

Comment on Cabin Air Filter by Hans Galle

Hans Galle — Fri, 11 Sep 2015 20:01:29 +0000

Yes, the animals of the wilderness.

Sometimes in Sweden, the mice nibbled my chainsaw useless and even a hole in the chain oil reservoir. Damned!

So be really angry, I can not give them.
HANS

Comment on EVSE Fuse Retrofit — IMPORTANT CORRECTION by Hans Galle

Hans Galle — Fri, 11 Sep 2015 19:10:10 +0000

Sorry, today only I read your answer.
Surfed on elbilforum.no and came through ‘Think Tech Center’ to your Blog (What I am very interested).

It’s just great how you illuminate this issue.
To transfer externally 20A after is the better solution. Does not affect the protection of the aluminum box.
But your Fuse Holders are not responsible for AC100 … 240V!
In addition, protection against water and dust important (IP54 … 65), and shock protection by fuse replacement.
Perhaps stuck in heat shrink tubing?

Right, why 20A blow, we have to accept unexplained for now.
20A fuse is typ “fast blow”_ AC / DC converter could inrush_ … etc.

My house fuse is a miniature circuit breaker L-16A(for Line Protection). These have magnetic and thermal releases combined (Does USA also determined.).
The characteristic curves have an intersection at about 6 times the rated current. It is triggered because of 96A in about 5 seconds. At 1.4x the rated current no tripping.
So is neither protective nor of importance for the 20A fuse in the PCU.
I must go to try to measure over an hour the current profile for AC230V charge Inlet. Where I previously said it would under 14A.
Merci HANS

Comment on 12 Volt Battery Replacement by mayerjm@comcast.net

mayerjm@comcast.net — Tue, 18 Aug 2015 06:26:57 +0000

BCI group size 26RMF

At Hawthorne Auto Clinic we source these batteries from WorldPac, and the brand is World Source.
BCI stands for Battery Council International. They specify physical dimensions for the various group sizes.
So BCI group 26 has a certain length x width x height with lead posts of a certain dimension on top (as opposed to side terminals). (Unfortunately the dimensions are not so uniform as to make the batteries exactly the same, so the way that the negative terminal clamp attaches to the post off the aft side of the bracket for the Varta battery doesn’t quite work for other batteries, but it’s not that big of a deal.)
The R, as I understand it, stands for Reversed, as in a group 26 will have the positive post on the left (I think, for example), and a 26R will have the positive post on the right. So it is very important that you heed the R.
The M and the F… I have no idea what those mean. If anyone can tell me, I would happily exchange my humble ignorance for a bit of knowledge.